Santa Fe, New Mexico!
The great thing about Santa Fe is that all the buildings (including houses) look like they’re adobe. I think it’s a law. The cool thing about it is that you totally feel like you’re in another place and time, and they’re obviously very serious about preserving their heritage.
New Mexican food is incredible! OMG! Chile in EVERYTHING! I normally only go for spicy foods every once in a while, but I was on a whole kick. The entire time, I wanted everything covered in green chile and red chile.
DAY ONE (Thursday, 4 September 2008)
So the first night, Michelle, Valente and Mark (Michelle’s brother) took us to this New Mexican restaurant called Tomasita’s. This is where we had vegetarian stuffed sopaipillas. I think I’m in love.
It so happened that it was Fiesta Week in Santa Fe, so that night, they took us to The Burning of Zozobra on this baseball field. Families gathered early to have picnics and find their spots for the event. There were some bands playing. One of them had this 15-minute repetitive song about Tito Puente. He rhymed his name with siempre, and that’s all I really want to remember. As soon as night fell and the ceremony began, it felt as though these warm families turned into some strange cult, yelling, “BURN HIM!!!!”
The effigy is also known as “Old Man Gloom”. He’s about 50 feet high. They burn him during Fiesta Week as a symbol of letting go of the glooms and sadness of the past year.
Throughout the whole thing, there was a guy groaning into a microphone. You can hear/see it in the video below. That lasted for like 45 minutes, and after about 20 minutes, you could tell he was getting tired of groaning. It was hilarious at first… then it got old… then it got so old it was hilarious again.
One of the puzzling parts was that they played “Amazing Grace” on bagpipes, so we thought maybe he was a NYC police officer. That was followed by that Jimi Hendrix solo version of “The Star-Spangled Banner”. WTF?
Old Man Gloom… groaning like a mother bitch.
This is Old Man Gloom burning.
So after that, we tried to look for a bar but it was a fail, so instead, we went to Albertsons, bought some beer, and went back to Michelle’s parents’ gorgeous house and hung out for a while.
DAY TWO (Friday, 5 September 2008)
I had a hard time sleeping since the people in the room next door came back late and started arguing about stuff. That was really annoying.
Anyway, Michelle and Valente were out doing family stuff for the day, so Paul, Mairi, Cy and I walked around the downtown Santa Fe area and eventually ended up at Pasqual’s for breakfast. Mmmm… breakfast veggie enchilada with a sweet mole. Mmmm… nice spicy way to start the day off. We walked around downtown some more and eventually split ways since Mairi needed a nap and Cy and I were hungry again. Since the Fiesta stuff was going on in The Plaza, we got some Indian fry bread and agua fresca. Eventually, we went back to the hotel to cool off.
Shortly after that, Paul and Mairi asked us if we wanted to take a scenic drive through the Santa Fe National Forest. So we hopped into the car and made a couple of turns near our hotel, and within 5 minutes, we were literally surrounded by trees. New Mexico has all kinds of shit to offer. We went up the mountain towards the ski resorts, took some photos and commented on the trees, trying to figure out what they were. After a while, both Mairi and I were getting carsick, so we went back to town to find a place to eat. We found Guadalupe Cafe. Mmm… burrito. This time the chile was really spicy. I couldn’t finish my plate. But it was still damn good.
Feeling in a merry mood, we decided to watch a film (Tropic Thunder), which turned out to be much funnier than I had expected.
Cy and I ended the day by watching two more military films (Medal of Honor and A Few Good Men)
DAY THREE (Saturday, 6 September 2008)
Once again, we were kept up by the neighbors… this time they were the ones on the other side. At least they weren’t yelling. They were just talking… very loudly. Cy slept till about noon, when I finally woke him up to tell him that I’d finished the Sodoku puzzle he’d spent several days on and also to tell him that I was hungry. We called Paul and Mairi to see what they were up to, and they invited us to go hiking up near Los Alamos to see the Bandalier National Monument. They’re these multi-story caves where the Pueblo lived. I wish we got to see the whole thing, but there wasn’t any time. We had to get to Michelle & Valente’s wedding.
Video of Cy, Paul and me in a big cave dwelling.
Michelle and Valente’s wedding was at Hacienda Doña Andrea. It was a beautiful ceremony. I really liked how it wasn’t religious, so it focused on the relationship between M&V. The whole thing felt really intimate, and I’m so happy I was able to be there. The weather was perfect and everything went smoothly. It was really difficult to not get emotional. I finally got to meet and see everyone that influenced their lives so much, and it became really obvious to me how they are who they are.
For instance, Valente and his mom danced to the song that she used to sing to him as a baby. His dad told us that she sang it to him when she came home from the hospital after he was born.
In some ways I’m sort of jealous of the closeness they experience with their families. The whole thing made me really happy for them. I think the wedding made me realize a few things… some things that Leo mentioned to me before that never truly clicked until then.
DAY FOUR (Sunday, 7 September 2008)
Cy left early Sunday morning to go to Phoenix to catch a ride to Mexico in order to meet up with his family in Puerto Peñasco. I spent much of the day traveling and confused about time differences. YAY!
And now, here I am, confused and pensive… sad and lonely. Being around Mairi and Paul and then Michelle and Valente made me realize how terribly wrong Cy and I are for each other… at least for now. It made me sad to wonder if I’d ever find that.
Anyway, here are some pictures to go with the words I just wrote…
- Santa Fe and Zozobra
- A gorgeous day.
- cave dwellings
- made by Valente's mom










































































